Activewear is Booming, But Only a Few Labels Are Making it Consciously
New Yorkers are coming up on month three of remote work. While other parts of the country are slowly reopening for business, we probably won’t go to a dinner party, a concert, or a restaurant until the end of summer (if not later). The fact that most of us live in small apartments only compounds the sense of cabin fever. That’s why this Memorial Day Weekend feels like a particular gift: Not only are we getting an extra day to unwind, take a long walk, and disconnect from our laptops, but the weather looks pretty good, too. Many of us will take the opportunity to get some exercise—perhaps outdoor yoga or a bike ride along the Hudson—and might be inspired to pick up some new workout clothes, too. Activewear and loungewear are among the only apparel categories that saw an increase in demand at the onset of COVID-19, understandably so; we’re working out at home and prioritizing comfort more than ever.
It’s great that we’re finding ways to destress and stay healthy, but when you pause to consider what most activewear is made of, the idea of living in it doesn’t sound so appealing. The majority of leggings and sports bras on the market are made of virgin polyester, which, for the uninitiated, is plastic; it’s derived from petroleum (i.e. oil) and is typically treated with chemical dyes. The implications are vast—air pollution, water pollution, not to mention the fact that petroleum is an energy-intensive, non-renewable resource. To make matters worse, we’ve come to view our workout clothes as a form of fast fashion: We buy them frequently and don’t keep them for very long.
As Nikki Reed, the actress, designer, and activist, points out: “We have a tendency to see the things we wear often as disposable. If you’re sweating in it and washing it a lot, there’s a sense that you want new, new, new.” She’s hoping her new recycled polyester leggings and sports bra for BaYou With Love, her line of recycled fine jewelry and eco-minded home goods, will offer conscious alternatives and help educate consumers. The material she sourced diverts plastic from landfills—where it would otherwise sit for hundreds of years—and can be recycled again and again without losing quality. (That said, you should still use a Guppyfriend filter bag to avoid shedding microplastics in the wash.) “I wanted to bring [my community] products with a meaningful story that they’re proud to wear, because I think once you give people ownership and the power to make decisions that have an impact, they feel like they’re a part of something bigger than themselves,” Reed says. “And at the end of the day, I think that’s what being a human being is all about.” Her long-term goal for BaYou With Love is to offer a take-back program for customers to send back their worn-out clothes to be recycled into new ones, creating a truly circular system.
While the sustainable activewear space is still relatively small, it used to be nonexistent; Girlfriend Collective and Adidas x Stella McCartney were early to the recycled-poly conversation. Now, we’re seeing labels joining them—and some are taking a different route with entirely natural, plant-based activewear. Designed in Australia and produced in Bali, Indigo Luna’s leggings, sports bras, and intimates are made of Tencel lyocell, a fiber derived from eucalyptus, and organic cotton. Each item is cut, sewn, and dyed by hand using a range of pretty botanical tints like indigo leaves, mango leaves, and redwood bark, though you’ll notice the black leggings aren’t quite as dark as the ones you’d find at a conventional sports brand. Plant-based dyes tend to be softer in color, and those ultra-black chemical dyes are particularly toxic. If you’re eyeing a lavender tank or saffron leggings but your size is sold out, that’s because Indigo Luna saw an overwhelming spike in demand at the start of COVID-19—a positive indicator that more people are paying attention. They’re taking custom orders, though, and they’re worth the wait. (Rêve en Vert is also taking pre-orders for select Indigo Luna pieces.)
Vyayama also offers plant-based activewear, only with a bolder, more athletic look. Its abstract animal print leggings are particularly popular and come in an ultra-soft, naturally cooling Tencel stretch jersey; other styles are cut in cupro, a silky regenerated cellulose fiber derived from cotton waste. They’re certified by the OEKO-TEX Standard 100, meaning no harmful toxins from the fibers or dyes can be absorbed by the skin. That’s especially meaningful to women with allergies or sensitivities; there’s still hardly any research on how our skin absorbs the treatments and dyes in our clothes, but there’s plenty of anecdotal evidence. Last week, The Wylde’s Lucette Romy told me that a bout with heavy lead poisoning made her skin extremely sensitive to clothes, detergents, and dyes; it was only after she traded all of her synthetics and conventional cottons for pure, un-dyed organic cotton that she found any relief. It’s worth considering even if you don’t have adverse reactions (that you know of, at least). We wear our leggings and sports bras tight against our skin, and our pores open as we sweat; if you can avoid toxic materials and dyes, why wouldn’t you?
It’s great that we’re finding ways to destress and stay healthy, but when you pause to consider what most activewear is made of, the idea of living in it doesn’t sound so appealing. The majority of leggings and sports bras on the market are made of virgin polyester, which, for the uninitiated, is plastic; it’s derived from petroleum (i.e. oil) and is typically treated with chemical dyes. The implications are vast—air pollution, water pollution, not to mention the fact that petroleum is an energy-intensive, non-renewable resource. To make matters worse, we’ve come to view our workout clothes as a form of fast fashion: We buy them frequently and don’t keep them for very long.
As Nikki Reed, the actress, designer, and activist, points out: “We have a tendency to see the things we wear often as disposable. If you’re sweating in it and washing it a lot, there’s a sense that you want new, new, new.” She’s hoping her new recycled polyester leggings and sports bra for BaYou With Love, her line of recycled fine jewelry and eco-minded home goods, will offer conscious alternatives and help educate consumers. The material she sourced diverts plastic from landfills—where it would otherwise sit for hundreds of years—and can be recycled again and again without losing quality. (That said, you should still use a Guppyfriend filter bag to avoid shedding microplastics in the wash.) “I wanted to bring [my community] products with a meaningful story that they’re proud to wear, because I think once you give people ownership and the power to make decisions that have an impact, they feel like they’re a part of something bigger than themselves,” Reed says. “And at the end of the day, I think that’s what being a human being is all about.” Her long-term goal for BaYou With Love is to offer a take-back program for customers to send back their worn-out clothes to be recycled into new ones, creating a truly circular system.
While the sustainable activewear space is still relatively small, it used to be nonexistent; Girlfriend Collective and Adidas x Stella McCartney were early to the recycled-poly conversation. Now, we’re seeing labels joining them—and some are taking a different route with entirely natural, plant-based activewear. Designed in Australia and produced in Bali, Indigo Luna’s leggings, sports bras, and intimates are made of Tencel lyocell, a fiber derived from eucalyptus, and organic cotton. Each item is cut, sewn, and dyed by hand using a range of pretty botanical tints like indigo leaves, mango leaves, and redwood bark, though you’ll notice the black leggings aren’t quite as dark as the ones you’d find at a conventional sports brand. Plant-based dyes tend to be softer in color, and those ultra-black chemical dyes are particularly toxic. If you’re eyeing a lavender tank or saffron leggings but your size is sold out, that’s because Indigo Luna saw an overwhelming spike in demand at the start of COVID-19—a positive indicator that more people are paying attention. They’re taking custom orders, though, and they’re worth the wait. (Rêve en Vert is also taking pre-orders for select Indigo Luna pieces.)
Vyayama also offers plant-based activewear, only with a bolder, more athletic look. Its abstract animal print leggings are particularly popular and come in an ultra-soft, naturally cooling Tencel stretch jersey; other styles are cut in cupro, a silky regenerated cellulose fiber derived from cotton waste. They’re certified by the OEKO-TEX Standard 100, meaning no harmful toxins from the fibers or dyes can be absorbed by the skin. That’s especially meaningful to women with allergies or sensitivities; there’s still hardly any research on how our skin absorbs the treatments and dyes in our clothes, but there’s plenty of anecdotal evidence. Last week, The Wylde’s Lucette Romy told me that a bout with heavy lead poisoning made her skin extremely sensitive to clothes, detergents, and dyes; it was only after she traded all of her synthetics and conventional cottons for pure, un-dyed organic cotton that she found any relief. It’s worth considering even if you don’t have adverse reactions (that you know of, at least). We wear our leggings and sports bras tight against our skin, and our pores open as we sweat; if you can avoid toxic materials and dyes, why wouldn’t you?
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